Thursday, 16 May 2013

Brixton Boxes

I bumped into this pile of empty boxes in Brixton market in London. Just look how many countries they come from:

The pile of boxes

This one came all the way from Jamaica

This vegetable box hadn't travelled far. It was from the UK.

Columbian cassava

I think these cucumbers were German

Cyprus


This fish came all the way from Yemen


Ghanaian yams

Green bananas (matoke) from Uganda

Fruit from Pakistan

Mangoes from the Dominican Republic

British chicken


Monday, 13 May 2013

The other Somalia Conference


Here is a From Our Own Correspondent I did for the BBC about the 'real' Somalia Conference. You can listen to it here. It's the one broadcast on 11 May 2013.

(INTRODUCTION) On Tuesday May 7 2013, delegates from more than fifty countries and international institutions gathered at Lancaster House in London for a big conference on Somalia. It was hosted by the British Prime Minister, David Cameron, and the new Somali president Hassan Sheikh Mohamud. The conference ended with donors promising support for efforts to transform Somalia from conflict-ridden ruin into a functioning nation state. But Mary Harper felt that it was another Somali event, also held in London, that deserved the attention:

The day after the Somalia Conference. The heads of state had made their speeches. Hundreds of millions of dollars/ pounds of extra money had been pledged. The journalists had packed up their cameras and tape recorders. The cleaners were vacuuming the corridors of Lancaster House.

But in another equally glamorous location, another Somalia Conference was taking place. And this was the one that, in many ways, really mattered. Because this was about business and investment.



The British Museum - home to ancient and precious objects from all over the world - was an odd choice of venue. Somalis are traditionally a nomadic people. Apart from livestock, the less you have in terms of material possessions, the better.

This also applies to the Somali business community, a super-globalised group who travel the world, living out of suitcases and making money.


They were there in force in the British Museum. As were the Americans, the Europeans and the Arabs, all keen for a stake in Somalia.  A country that has been at war for more than two decades, its cities smashed to rubble, needs new buildings, roads, electricity and water. And it's in a part of the world where fresh reserves of oil and gas are being discovered.

The first thing that caught my eye was an enormous orange banner with a picture of a fat smiling Somali baby wearing nothing but a nappy. Standing in front of it was a smart young Somali in a shiny suit. His name was Mohamed. And he was selling nappies. Made in America. Sold in Somalia.



Mohamed



The company was set up by a group of Somalis living in Minnesota in the United States - home to a huge community of Somali refugees. It was inspired by a young Minnesota-based Somali woman who, every time she went to Somalia, got frustrated by the lack of nappies, sanitary pads and other such items.





So, like a good Somali, she saw an opportunity. The products have Somali names and images. They are a Somali brand. And they are selling like crazy in Somali towns.
Mohamed told me that a recent study found that thirty per cent of teenage girls in Somalia miss school for a few days every month when they have their periods. The products he sells means they don't have to miss school any more.



I could have talked to Mohamed for hours, but I was interrupted by a tap on the shoulder. Someone wanted to introduce me to another Somali entrepreneur called Faisa.

Faisa is small, dainty and extremely pretty. Her leopard skin headscarf made her golden skin glow even more, lips painted a bright and shiny red.

Fails
She was bubbly and dynamic and had a strong Yorkshire accent. She told me how her family had fled Somalia when civil broke out in 1988. They ended up in the British town of Sheffield in South Yorkshire, hence the accent.



Faisa is doing the opposite of Mohamed. She is exporting goods from Somalia to Europe, the Gulf and elsewhere.

Although it is best known for conflict, famine, piracy and extremism linked to Al Qaeda, Somalia also exports more live animals than any other country in the world. Sheep, goats, cows and camels.

Because Somalia is so hot, the animals have thin skin. This means the leather they produce is of the finest quality, and is used to make fine, supple, soft leather goods such as gloves and handbags.

So this dainty young lady from Sheffield is in talks with some of the world's most prestigious leather companies. She was born in the Somali town of Burao, famous for its livestock. And she knows all about animals and their hides.

She rattled off a long list of tanning methods, and told me her company is investing in a Somali tannery, so the hides can be properly treated at source, instead of the current salt and sun drying method.

But Faisa hasn't stopped at leather. Somalia is also home to special trees whose sap produces frankincense and myrrh. For centuries, these have been exported from Somalia for use as incense in mosques and churches, for perfume, cosmetics and other purposes.
It is currently exported in its raw form. Faisa wants to purify it in Somalia, so more of the profits stay in the country.

After meeting Mohamed, Faisa and many others like them, I wondered why the speeches and politics of the previous day had got all the attention. They felt like a lot of hot air. Unlike the Somali company selling affordable nappies and sanitary pads in Somalia where they are much needed. Or the fine gloves, bags, coats and shoes being made from Somali leather. These felt like real things bringing real benefits. Not just to Somalis but to many other people too.

Wednesday, 1 May 2013

After Borama

The Africa Research Institute is in a very handsome part of London, tucked away behind Smith Square in Westminster.


Smith Square



St John's, Smith Square

I went there for the launch of its latest publication, which is called
After Borama: Consensus, representation and parliament in Somaliland.

The place was packed. Luckily everyone had name tags. The one that jumped out at me was 'Sir Edward Clay', who made quite a name for himself as British High Commissioner to Kenya (he was declared persona non grata by the Kenyan authorities after he retired - it had something to do with his use of words like 'vomit' and 'gluttons').

The director of ARI, Edward Paice, thanked the panelists for coming, especially as they had experienced difficulties on their way to London. Somaliland's foreign minister, Mohamed Omar, had interrupted important meetings in Washington DC. Haroon Ahmed Yusuf - who works with Somaliland's women's network, Nagaad, had trouble with the border authorities, and the founder of the Somali/ British farm Degmo, Hamish Wilson had been kicked in the face by one of his sheep. 

Hamish started proceedings by showing us some wonderful photos he took at the 1993 Borama conference, which lasted four months and lay the foundations of the Somaliland state.


Hamish Wilson in full flow

 Ferocious row at Borama conference - as it becomes clear the interim president Abdirahman Tur (just visible) is not going to win the election.

Hamish described Somali society as being a "democracy on the point of anarchy" where there is a "God-given right that Somalis should be allowed to stand up and speak their mind". He said that "to the casual observer, the Borama conference was chaos" - but that it actually worked. He said the UN - which was busy trying to sort out the violence in south and south-central Somalia - was opposed to the Borama conference, which was largely funded by Somalilanders.

Somaliland's foreign minister, Mohamed Omar, then read a speech. He didn't depart from what was written down (and I slightly wondered whether it was him who had written the speech, or someone else).... He explained that Somaliland was not going to the Somalia Conference of 7 May because it was being co-hosted by Somalia, and this would compromise Somaliland's position.

We then heard from Haroon Ahmed Yusuf, who spoke a lot about the need to get more women into politics. It was refreshing to hear this coming from a man. Then there was a passionate contribution from Farah Jirdon of the Pharo Foundation. She said if anyone wants to understand Somaliland, they must go out of the cities and see how difficult life is for rural people. She said the World Bank had constructed 6 dams in Somaliland, but that these had fallen into disrepair. The Pharo Foundation is fixing two of them. Water and youth.

Edward Clay - sand dams.

Awdal State.

Sunday, 28 April 2013

Somalia Conference in London (Take Two)

It feels a bit like déjà vu. It feels a bit like last year. Another big Somalia Conference is being held in London - last year it was on February 23, this year it's on May 7. It's being held in the same venue, Lancaster House and, just like last year, lots of heads of state and other bigwigs have been invited.

British officials keep telling me this conference is different. Unlike the one last year, which was hosted by the British prime minister, David Cameron, this one will be hosted by both Mr Cameron and the (relatively) new Somali president, Hassan Sheikh Mohamud.

Some British officials are so keen to stress that the conference is, in part at least, 'Somali owned' that large Somali flags emblazon the bottom of their emails. Sometimes I get confused, and think I have received an email from someone in the Somali government, not the British one.


Somali flags emblazon the bottom of emails from British officials

And, just like last year, the UK has caught Somali Fever. A seemingly endless series of Somali-related events has been organised, ranging from posh dinners with the president to angry protests by angry self-declared Somali states.

The conference itself has three main aims:

1. The Somali government is expected to 'share its plans' for developing Somalia's military, police, justice sector and public financial management systems.

2. The 'international community' is supposed to reach an agreement on how to support the implementation of the Somali government's plans.

3. The Somali government is expected to outline how it plans to resolve the outstanding political issues within Somalia (does this include Somaliland, or does it refer to other 'issues' including Jubbaland, Puntland, Galmudug, Khatumo State, areas controlled by Ahlu-Sunna-wa-Jamaa, areas controlled by Al Shabaab, areas occupied by pirates, areas 'secured' by Ethiopians, Kenyans, Burundians, Ugandans, Sierra Leoneans, Djiboutians, Nigerians, Bancroft, etc, etc?).

The conference is also expected to:

4. 'Welcome' dialogue between 'the Federal Government of Somalia and Somaliland' to 'build trust and cooperation. (The two presidents met recently in Turkey, but Britain has been finding it difficult to convince Somaliland to come to the conference).

5. Endorse the UN Security Council resolution which extends the mandate of AMISOM forces in Somalia.

6. Endorse another UN resolution mandating a new UN mission for Somalia. (I wonder what will happen to the head of UN mission, Augustine Mahiga?)

7. Agree what it calls a 'package of support' for Somalia on preventing sexual violence. (Remember a Somali woman was this year jailed in Mogadishu for saying she had been gang raped by members of the Somali armed forces - she has since been cleared of the charges and released. One of her alleged crimes was insulting the government.)

8. 'Hear the latest' on the Somali government's maritime strategy.

9. 'Emphasise the importance of the orderly and voluntary return of refugees to Somalia' and 'look forward' to an event on this issue to be hosted by Somalia, Kenya and the UN. (Kenya last year ordered Somali refugees to leave urban areas and go to the huge Dadaab camp in the east of the country. The UK, US and other countries are also hotting up on efforts to deport Somalis.)

Of course, the conference will have to have an 'outcome'. I expect the 50 or so countries and organisations will pledge their support for the initiatives discussed in Lancaster House, and perhaps offer some more money. But Somalia is featuring in so many big international events this year, that the London Conference will probably only be able to offer a relatively small slice of the cake. Other pledges and financial commitments have to be saved up for the other big meetings later this year, including the Tokyo conference on African development and an EU conference on a new deal for fragile states (which Somalia has already embraced).



Sunday, 7 April 2013

Doing business in Somalia

http://www.demotix.com/news/1932657/somali-economic-forum-s-annual-meeting-held-hilton#media-1933585

Sunday, 24 March 2013

Somali salt

If you drive south from Mogadishu, down a dusty, bumpy road along the coast, which you share mainly with nomads driving their livestock, you eventually come across a group of people making salt.